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The new dialled-back regime for Te Koko works brilliantly in 2019. Gone are the overt tropical flavours, replaced with a vibrant nose of green apple, peach and nettle – framed with soft spice from the oak ageing (there is now nine percent new oak, with much larger vessels used). The reduction of malolactic fermentation to 50% has imbued the wine with far better balance. The weight and texture are there, but don’t overwhelm. Delicious now, this will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar. Drink now to 2027.